thisplace.com.au - Paving Project Ideas

Paving - Hints and Tips

Take time to plan and prepare. It is the key to a great job
Draw up a plan of the area so that you can see everything that is needed
Allow 5 % more when ordering pavers to allow for cuts and breakage
Large areas may have to be cleared with a bobcat rather than by hand
If the area is large, do the paving in smaller segments so you have a sense of achievement as each area is completed
Do not use sand as a filler to level the ground as this will cause the finished paving to be uneven
Always wear eye protection when using machines to cut pavers
For an easy, accurate cut, use an angle grinder to groove 10 mm from each side and then crack with a bolster and hammer
Time and effort spent on preparation and attention to detail will be rewarded many times over in the finished product
The finished paver level is only as good as the base

Tools and Materials for Paving

You may have to hire a brick saw to cut some pavers and a compactor to compact the sand once the pavers are in place.

How much bedding sand will I need?

Area to be paved in square metres multiplied by 0.05 = cubic metres

How much road base will I need if doing a driveway?

Area to be paved in square metres multiplied by 0.10 = cubic metres

If you are paving a driveway or the soil is clay and very poor, road base is a must to ensure a flat and solid surface. This should be 100 mm thick and spread to a line parallel with the finished height of the paving.

Compact the road base with a compactor and be particular as to finish as poor compaction can mean poor paving after a few months or years.

Preparing the Site

Select the desired finished surface level and drive stakes into the ground at the outer corners of the proposed paved area.

Run a string line between them at the finished surface level and attach a line level. Once the final level is established allow for surface drainage, normally 20 mm per metre is sufficient.

The finished paving must be below the damp course of the building and slope away from the building.

Remove all vegetation and soil to the required depth from the string line. 50 mm of sand and 40 mm paver less 10 mm for compaction is 80 mm down from the string line.

Where you are not paving up to a building you can set temporary timber boxing and remove the string line, this will ensure square corners and straight edges.

The top of the timber boxing should be the finished level of the pavers. To check if the boxing is square, measure the diagonals, if they are equal, it is square.

Hint - when coming off a wall, use the 3:4:5 ratio to give you a square corner to start and check at regular intervals, especially on long sections of paving.
Hint - if road base is required it should be placed into the site and compacted to give a strong and solid base especially for vehicular traffic

Spreading the Sand

Spread the bedding sand over the surface and, working from the top of the boxing , set the screeding rails in place, 30 mm from the top of the boxing and follow the slope for water run off.

Pull the screeding board over the screeding rails to a level surface. Remove one rail and set it in place further along, remembering to fill the rut with sand.

Repeat the procedure with the next area. Do not screed off too large an area of sand as you should not walk on it and may have to step over it.

Hint - more time should be spent on ensuring that the sand is spread even and level as this will determine the quality of the finished product.

Laying the Pavers

Once you have selected the pattern for your pavers you need to determine the average width of the pavers.

Place 20 pavers tightly together, side by side, measure the overall width by divide by 20. Add 3 mm to this average and this is the width required for each paver including the gap.

Set a string line at intervals around the area to paved and have the joints line up with these string lines

Hint - perfectly straight joint lines make average pavers look perfect and crooked joint lines make perfect pavers look poor.

Start laying the pavers in the desired pattern and simply press them firmly into the sand. Always allow 2-3 mm for the joint gap and never allow the pavers to touch as they may chip.

Check for square at various intervals so that if you are straying it can be rectified easily.

The pattern you select is personal preference however if you are laying a driveway, either herringbone at 90 or 45 degrees is the desired pattern to be used.

Borders are a good idea to enhance the shape and to allow you to contrast with another colour. When using a border always do the border first to ensure a straight edge and if cutting is required, due to the shape or pattern, cut the inner pavers.

Cutting Pavers

Always lay as many of the full pavers as possible and then cut and place each paver individually to ensure the correct size and place.

Hint - Don't forget to allow for the gap between the pavers when cutting different sizes to fit

When cutting pavers with a bolster and hammer, always lay them on soft sand so they are supported.

Never cut them on grass or soil as they will break in the wrong spot. Mark the paver on both sides with a pencil and tap firmly on the face. Turn the paver over and repeat on the other side . Repeat until the paver breaks.

This cut will be suitable for most cuts, however a more accurate cut can be achieved with a masonry disc in a saw or angle grinder. A brick saw can also be hired to give a perfect cut and finish.

Compacting and Jointing

Once you are happy with the finished area it is time to fill gaps with sand and compact the area.

Spread the sand over the surface and sweep it into all the gaps. With the compactor or a rubber mallet and a piece of timber, about 600 mm square, compact the area until it is level with the top of the boxing.

If using a plate compactor, use plywood or a carpet mat under it to prevent damaging the paver surface.

Once the compacting is completed, top up the sand in the joints as it will have settled.

Hint - if using a gapsand with silicon, ensure that the pavers are dry and that all the sand is removed off the pavers before water is applied
Hint - Wet the surface with a fine spray and prevent water run off

Note : Do not mix cement with jointing sand

Edge Restraints

Remove the timber boxing and the paving will be firm enough until the edge restraints are in place.

Hint - don't walk on the edges until restraints are in place and dry

Lay concrete mix against the edge of the paving in a triangular profile and finish it half way the side of the paver.

This will allow for soil and grass to grow right to the edge of the paver. Other alternatives are hardwood timber, or pavers on their edge supported by concrete.

Once the pavers have dried completely sealers are available to enhance the look and prevent staining. The directions should be adhered to precisely.

A light acid wash may be necessary to remove any cement stains from the pavers and the directions should be followed or ask for advice before using.

Allow to dry for 24 hours before applying the sealer.

Things you will need

Tape measure and pencil
Spade and shovel
Wheel barrow and nails
String line and level
Hammer and bolster chisel
Yard broom
Garden hose
Timber boxing 90 mm x 10 mm (lengths to suit area)
Timber pegs
Aluminium screed or timber board (25 mm x 100 mm x 1.8m)
Two screeding rails (timber garden stakes 2-3 m long)
Bedding sand, course washed sand (1 cubic metre = 20sq at 50 mm thick)
Jointing sand (1 bag will do 20 - 30 sqm)
Roadbase for driveways or poor soil areas
Pavers to suit the area (areas which require a lot of cutting, add 5%)

(Source: Queensland Homes Building and Renovating - Vol 1, No 2 - text - Herb Kuhn)