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| Building, Restoring & Renovating |
Here are some building, restoring & renovating questions that have been asked and the
answers that some of our experts have responded with.
Flooring Topics
Interior Design Topics
Renovation & Maintenance Topics
Other Building Topics
Q: How do I clean unsealed baltic pine flooring?
A: Hope some of this information can help you out.
Sealing
Wood floors should be protected with a sealer.
Penetrating sealers go into the wood pores; worn spots can be resealed.
Lacquer, shellac, varnish stay on top of the wood; if worn off in traffic areas, usually the whole floor has to be sanded and refinished.
Prevent scratches when moving furniture by putting heavy socks over the legs.
Cleaning
Vacuum often to keep dirt from grinding into the floor finish or sticking to it.
Wipe up spills immediately. A damp (not wet) cloth may be used on a well-sealed wood floor to wipe up food spills or mud. Wipe dry with cloth or paper towel.
Clean when necessary with a solvent-based liquid wax for wood. Follow directions on container. Solvent removes dirt and old wax, and leaves a thin wax coating which must be buffed. Apply with:
Floors
It is possible to obtain the warmth and colour of Baltic Pine with new pine timber floors using FeastWatson's Old Baltic Stain. It is an oil-based stain, and a second coat will give a deeper colour. They also produce Black Japan, which by dilution, can have a range of shades from black to a light oak.
Lime finishes
Liming timber is a way of giving it an uneven or aged look, but keeping it crisp and clean as
well as showing up the grain of the timber. Feast Watson has a wide range of Prooftint Woodstains
available. A lime finish can be obtained by mixing a small amount of Prooftint with Liming
Solution. Their range includes: Walnut, Golden Teak, Jarrah, Mahogany, Teak Brown, Rosewood,
Maple, Blue, Cedar, Black, Red, Rimu, Green and Oak. These stains are transformed to soft, pastel
colours with the liming solution. Great for mouldings (skirtings or architraves).
Q: We are redoing our 2nd floor. Right now we are down to studs and roof. No attic. We are looking for a way of heating this area. There are 3 rooms, 1 9by10 and 2 10by14. There is no duct work from the lower levels of the home and no way of putting them in. The upper floor needs its own heat source. Do you have any suggestions other then electrice base boards?
A: There a number of ways to you can go about heating those rooms. It depends upon personal choice and money. There are some things to consider.
Don't heat rooms to tropical temperatures. Heating them to only 20 degress may mean you have to wear a jumper but it'll save you a lot of energy. Each degree Celsius less will save about 10% on your energy use. Also only heat the rooms you're actually using and reduce temperatures at night. Use thermostats on your heater to control temperatures.
Good insulation is a great way to improve a rooms heating and cooling capacity. It can be a great way of keeping costs down and will help in both hot ad cold weather.
If you decide to go for a room heater make sure that the appliance has a good energy rating. The same applies to air conditioners and when looking at them consider purchasing a reverse cycle model as they are the cheapest to run and can both heat and cool.
Carpet on the floor is another way of keeping a room warmer in the cooler months. Radiant floor
heating is another great way of heating your rooms. Don't forget Solar heating as a way of
solving your heating problems.
Q: We are looking at purchasing a home that is quite old. The light switches and power points are somewhat very 70-80's Large 2 inch switches. Would it be possible to change these? There are also 2 bathrooms and one ensuite. We have approx $30,000 to spend on a renovation would these get all 3 bathrooms (retiled/new vanities/new shower frames- same baths) completed and perhaps leave some money over?
A: You should have no problems in replacing your old light switches with something more modern and more to your tastes.
With the renovation of the 3 bathrooms you would probably do it for the $30 000 and have some left over. Of course it all depends upon several factors like how much work is involved, what type of fittings you want to put in each of them. It would be easy to spend a large proportion of your funds on just one bathroom if you went over the top. However it should be possible to do what you want within your budget.
With 3 rooms to be done you will have some bargaining power with both builders and retailers as they should all be keen to have your business and with some bargaining skills you may be able to get some good discounts into the equation.
The average bathroom costs around $10 000 to $15 000 which would take you from a basic but good quality renovation to one with more expensive finishes and fixtures (eg spa bath, chrome finishes). This cost would include labour. For an economy renovation the costs of the job break down like this
For an average to expensive renovation the breakdown would be more like 50 - 50. One of the biggest costs is the labour and if fixtures are to be moved plumbing costs can double. So if you can keep toilets, baths and basins in original locations to save labour costs. Also consider the possibility of tiling over existing floor or wall tiles to save cost of removal. You could also save money and space by forgoing a full vanity and opting for a wall hung basin and a simple wall shelf.
Here are some things to consider
Labour costs - include stripping bathroom of existing tiles and fittings, may include-figuring the plumbing, rendering walls, re-wiring, waterproofing, drainage, tiling and painting, installing new plumbing and fittings, installing ventilation or heating and rubbish removal.
Shower Screens
Cheap option is a shower curtain from about $20. Partial or full glass screens can cost up to about $1000 and all in one showers and screens cost about $1000.
Vanities
Bathroom vanities range from simple modular units which can cost about $400 to custom made units which will cost about 50% more. For vanity tops the choices include laminate - $40 sq m, marble which costs from about $300 for a standard vanity top ora hard wearing product like Corian which costs about $350 a lineal metre.
Tiling
Simple glazed ceramic wall tiles cost as little as $25 to $35 sq m - decorator and handpainted tiles cost much more. Mosaic wall tiles cost about $40 to $45 sq m. Mosiac tiles look great but are more expensive to lay as they are difficult to work with when cutting edges. With all tiling, the greatest expense is the labour involved in removing the old tiles and laying the new ones.
Shower fittings
Options range from cheaper, simple overhead shower head and tap sets which cost from $150 to more sophisticated hand held fittings which can cost triple that.
Baths
Baths can cost as little as $180 for a plain acrylic bath, to more than $800 for a spa bath.
Acrylic baths have improved in quality and they are now a cheaper alternative to enamel on steel or
enamel on cat iron. You can also pay more for special size requirements.
(16/07/2001)
Q: I am a complete novice and would like information on how to go about painting internal exposed brickwork. It is a very 'rough' texture (ie very uneven bricks and the gaps between bricks are very large/deep). I quite like the texture of the brickwork, but need to colour to lighten the room/s, as it is very dark within limited natural light
A: For Masonry and Brick
Scrape away any loose paint and fill holes using an exterior masonry filler using a broad-bladed knife or scraper. Use a brush or a rag to roughen the filler before it is completely dry to match the texture of the surrounding surface. Larger holes may require a ready mixed filler such as Polyfilla Ready to use Large Cracks.
Apply an acrylic masonry sealer if surface is fresh or very porous.
Rough surfaces usually need more cleaning and preparation that smooth ones do. Rough surfaces usually require more paint to cover them than smooth ones do
When painting an extremely rough surface for the first time, such as cinder block, apply a coat of latex block filler. The filler closes and seals the pores of the block and provide a smooth substrate for the finish coat. Other sealers and primers are available for less porous textures. The time spent applying filler or sealer ensures that the surface doesn't absorb the paint - and masonry can absorb a lot of paint. As a result, you save time and money. Remember that rollers work well on masonry.
All you need is some General Purpose Mortar or some Sand and Cement and if the wall is soft or porous, Hydrated Lime as an additive, a metal and wooden float for applying the mortar and finishing materials such as a hessian bag or a stiff brush.
The surface to be rendered must be clean and free of dust, loose mortar, rust, grease, paint or oil. After brushing, the wall is dampened down. At the edges, a wooden batten, nailed to the wall, gives a clear edge to work to.
With a steel float, apply the first coat, which in normal conditions would not exceed 10 mm in thickness.
Scour with a sharp object to provide a good key for the second coat of render, which is applied with the wooden float. Oxides can be mixed into the render for a lasting colour.
Light spraying with water or covering with plastic sheet, will prevent drying out. Interesting
patterns can be achieved by bagging with a "ball" of hessian, brushing with a stiff brush
or floating on pebbles while render is wet. Use your imagination for a variety of finishes.
(09/07/2001)
Q: What is a good "recipe" for mixing cement when being used as a render? I've got a small (approx 15cm high) raised concrete barrier around the base of a downstairs laundry area. Its looking a bit rough and thought I would simply apply a coat of render to smooth it out, before painting. Is it worth adding something like "Bondcrete" to the mix to help it "stick"?
A: All you need is some General Purpose Mortar or some Sand and Cement and if the wall is soft or porous, Hydrated Lime as an additive, a metal and wooden float for applying the mortar and finishing materials such as a hessian bag or a stiff brush.
The surface to be rendered must be clean and free of dust, loose mortar, rust, grease, paint or oil. After brushing, the wall is dampened down.
With a steel float, apply the first coat, which in normal conditions would not exceed 10 mm in thickness.
Scour with a sharp object to provide a good key for the second coat of render, which is applied with the wooden float.
Light spraying with water or covering with plastic sheet, will prevent drying out. Interesting patterns can be achieved by bagging with a "ball" of hessian, brushing with a stiff brush or floating on pebbles while render is wet. Use your imagination for a variety of finishes.
You don't want the concrete to be too wet or too dry just a good mix. You certainly could use
some bondcrete on the old structure to help the new concrete grip it.
(06/07/2001)
Q: What are "Floating" Floorboards?
A: Floating floors are designed to be installed onto a concrete subfloor, or any other flat, firm and level surface without the need to use battens, nails or glue. They "float" because they are not attached to the subfloor in any way, and therefore can be installed very quickly. The mass of the floor keeps it in place.
Floating floors made from wood can consequently expand and contract with the changing seasons without cracking, splitting or forming gaps. A floating floor is usually installed on a special underlay, which acts as a moisture barrier and sound absorber.
Floating floors are supplied either pre-finished (the lacquer has been applied at the factory) or raw (the floor has to be sanded and lacquered on site).
Advantages
Disadvantages of a Floating Floor
Installation Instructions (Floating Floors)
Q:
How can I know which Ceiling insulation would do the best job for me?
What thickness of Insulation should I use?
A: It is important to remember: "Do not select your insulation on the basis of thickness, but instead by it's thermal resistance or R - Value"
For the same thickness two different insulation products may differ in insulation effectiveness. The difference is caused by the composition of each product.
What's an R-value?
(And how to make sure you get the performance you're paying for.)
Insulation performance is measured as the 'thermal resistance' of a product - its 'R-value'. The higher the R-value, the more effective is the insulation material at reducing the flow of heat.
Different types of insulation with the same R-value have the same insulation performance. As well as the material it's made out of, a product's density and depth determine its R-value.
What R-value do you need?
If you want to insulate your home, the R-value you need depends on the climate where you live.
Standards Australia has recommended R-values for ceilings and walls for each region in Australia, which aim to be the best compromise between energy savings and installation costs.
The ceiling is the part of your home you're most likely to insulate (it's usually the easiest part to insulate in an existing house, and accounts for up to 40% of heat losses and gains). In most coastal areas you'll need R=2.5 to R=3.0 for your ceiling, while inland R=3.5 to R=4.0 is more appropriate. The recommended insulation levels for walls are generally lower than those for ceilings.
However, places only a relatively short distance apart may require quite different R-values (for example, the Blue Mountains in NSW versus metropolitan Sydney). Make sure you know the appropriate recommendation for your region before you have the insulation installed.
Based on 1997 prices, insulating an average ceiling of 120 m2 to an R-value of 2.5 will cost around:
Q: We have received a number of quotes to renovate a leaking bathroom and each says that their shower waterproofing is best - plastic shower liner, copper tray, fibreglass and paint on substance that dries to form a membrane. We're confused! What do you recommend?
A: You have done the right thing by asking several different people for quotes. As you say they all say that their way is the best way to go.
The first thing you must do is to work out exactly where you're bathroom is leaking. This will help you with making a decision.
Ask a plumbing supplier if you think you need a second opinion. If the leaking is coming from your tiles and grout you can use bondcrete with your grout to make it waterproof.
Always get at least 3 estimates on any project. You'll be surprised at how two contractors can bid the same project for completely different prices. Be sure they are drafting the proposal on the same scope and quality of work. Remember to "compare apples to apples, and oranges to oranges." Also remember to keep records of what work was carried out.
Make sure that you use a reliable tradesperson and remember the lowest quote may not necessarily
be the best.
(20/04/2001)
Q: I intend to turn the garage into a living area but the walls are brick and the concrete on the ceiling looks untidy. I was thinking of bagging the brick walls then painting over them and would be grateful if you could advise me as to what I need to do and if it is going to be a difficult project. Also what could I do to fix the ceiling up, I did think of textured paint but was told that it is difficult to apply and cannot be painted over. Your comments would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
A: You could just paint over the bricks - this would be the cheapest option, but you may want to bag it as you suggested. Below is a guide to the process.
All you need is some General Purpose Mortar or some Sand and Cement and if the wall is soft or porous, add Hydrated Lime as an additive, a metal and wooden float for applying the mortar and finishing materials such as a hessian bag or a stiff brush.
The surface to be rendered must be clean and free of dust, loose mortar, rust, grease, paint or oil. After brushing, the wall is dampened down. At the edges, a wooden batten, nailed to the wall, gives a clear edge to work to.
With a steel float, apply the first coat, which in normal conditions, would not exceed 10 mm in thickness.
Scour with a sharp object to provide a good key for the second coat of render, which is applied with the wooden float. Oxides can be mixed into the render for a lasting colour.
Light spraying with water or covering with plastic sheet, will prevent drying out. Interesting patterns can be achieved by bagging with a "ball" of hessian, brushing with a stiff brush or floating on pebbles while render is wet. Use your imagination for a variety of finishes.
Another option is to plaster over the walls. For this job you would probably have to get a tradesman in to do it. The concrete floor could be painted, and then you could throw some rugs down on it, this would be relatively cheap. You could get the floor tiled or even carpeted, it basically comes down to what you personally prefer or want. Tiles are good as they wear well and spills do not worry them. They are also cool but may be a bit cold for some in winter, but if you wear something on your feet this won't be a problem.
Carpet is fine too, it is just that you have to be a bit more careful with it, especially if
you have kids around. It depends if the room is to be a family room or not.
(01/03/2001)
Q: I am painting a 12 year old house. The windows are anodised metal and a horrible brown/green colour. I have tried special primers when painting the windows, but nothing seems to adhere very well. Is there a primer that will stick, and what top coats should I use?
A:
We contacted one of the paint suppliers on our site
Classic Paint Supplies ( PH 07 - 3821 2771) and they said that the best primer
to use is a marine primer called Nortext. Once this has been applied you can paint a gloss
enamel over it to finish the job.
(24/01/2001)
Q: What is the quickest and easiest way to remove wallpaper in preparation for painting? If not quick and easy, the best?
A: If you're planning to paint, you must remove the wallpaper. Paint will seal the surface and make the wallpaper almost impossible to remove in the future. In addition, the painted surface will not look as smooth as it could and your efforts will be wasted. There are several ways to go about removing wallpaper.
You'll need to prepare your room, follow these steps:
Here Comes the Wall - If you're removing stripable wallpaper and the paper surface of your plaster comes up too, you need to stop immediately. If you don't, your walls can be badly damaged. When this happens, it generally means that the gyprock was not sealed with enough paint. You'll need to glue down any loose pieces and seams that have separated. Fill in uneven areas with non-shrinking speckling compound. Sand your repairs and apply an oil-based sealer with an enamel undercoat.
Peelable Wallpaper - Some wallpapers are peelable, which means that they have a top coat which comes off just like stripable paper. Once you have peeled off the top vinyl coat, you'll have the backing left. Follow directions for stripping with water to remove the backing. Don't leave the backing on, even if it's in good condition.
Removing Washable Wallpapers - The surface that makes washable wallpaper easy to clean also makes it a little harder to remove. You must break through the plastic film that covers the paper in order for water to penetrate the paper. Use a scoring tool to create holes in the wallpaper. Soak the paper with water from a spray bottle, spraying water into the slits so it can work its way behind the covering. Wait about 10 minutes and then scrape off the paper with a wide blade knife.
Stripping with Water - For this job, you'll need to buy a liquid stripper concentrate to be mixed with hot water according to the manufacturer's directions. Apply the mixture to your walls with a broad brush or a sprayer. Work from top to bottom a section at a time. You don't want to try to tackle such a large area that the paper dries out before you have a chance to remove it. Let the paper soak for a few minutes; then start stripping it away with a scraper.
Sometimes, you'll find an old paper that just won't absorb water. When this happens you'll have to scratch up the surface with coarse sandpaper or a scoring tool to allow the water to soak into the paper. Once it's properly soaked, apply the wetting agent twice more and let it soak for 30 minutes. You'll know it's ready when you can scrape off pieces of paper with your fingernail. Remember to wear gloves and goggles since you're dealing with chemicals.
Steam Removal - Your last resort for removing wallpaper is to steam-strip it. This job is strenuous because you'll need to steam and strip at the same time. You might want to ask a friend for help. A steamer uses boiling water to soften the glue between the wallpaper and the wall.
If you are removing vinyl-coated wallpaper with a steamer, you still have to use a scoring tool to punch holes in the paper so the steam can reach the glue. You'll probably want to rent a steamer instead of purchasing one since this isn't a job you'll do very often. Carefully read the manufacturer's directions, as they may vary from machine to machine. Basically, the process works this way:
Q: I am looking at buying a house which has been mostly renovated. The kitchen and dining room floor is sanded back hardwood. I am not sure what sort of covering I will be putting onto the floor, and how long it will take to decide. Should I protect the floorboards with any product in the meantime?
A:
You could leave the floor unfinished (unsealed ) if you want to however you would
have to be careful about stains, scratches etc that often come with normal wear and tear on
any floor - especially if you have kids or pets. Have a look at out the
Finishing a Wood Floor topic on our site, this should
help you decide on what to do.
(10/01/2001)
Q: How do I change a washer on the laundry tap?
A: The first thing to do is to switch the water supply to the tap off. Turn the tap on to drain away any water left in the pipe. Plug the bath/sink to prevent any parts slipping down the plug-hole.
The unit which houses the tap washer and the spindle is known as the head. (On older taps this is covered by an outer shield which screws into the tap body).
To remove a conventional shield, make sure that the tap is fully turned on. Loosen the shield with a spanner or wrench, unscrew it and leave it loose. (To avoid damaging the tap, cover the tap with an old rag when using the spanner or wrench.)
Most handles are either simply a push-shift on to the spindle, or else are secured in place by a screw through the top. Check the former first by gently pulling the handle upwards. If it stays in place, dig out the plastic cover in the top to expose the screw. Once the screw is removed, the handle can be pulled off.
The next step is to remove the head. Find the hexagon nut at the bottom of the assembly and loosen it using the wrench or spanner. Unscrew the head from the body of the tap and remove this. At the base you can see the washer (or what is left of it) seated in its jumper.
The washer will be held in place in the jumper by a small nut. Remove this nut using a pair of pliers, take out the pieces of the old washer, and put the new one in place, with the maker's name against the jumper.
The entire head is made of nylon in newer taps, and the washer and jumper are one unit, which slots into the bottom of the assembly. To replace the washer in this system, simply pull out the old jumper and push in the new one.
Once you have fitted the washer, re-assemble the tap, close it and turn the water supply back on. If the washer is fitted correctly, there will be no drips from the nozzle and you should be able to turn the tap on and off with no effort.
If you are unsure it would be best to get a plumber to do it and then you can watch to see
exactly how it is done and next time you may be able to do it yourself. It is no good having a
go yourself and making a mistake which could lead to some damage to your home ( and cost you money ).
(02/01/2001)
Q: What are the rates for floor sanding and polishing a timber floor?
A: Obviously the rates for floor sanding and polishing will vary from one contractor to another. The cost of the job basically comes down to a few things the cost will depend upon the state of your floors. If they are in poor condition they will need more work to bring them up to standard. If they are in better condition then the time needed to be spent on them will be less and will reduce the costs.
The cost will also be determined by the type of coating you choose to apply to your floor. Some are more expensive and require more work than others the size of your job will have a bearing. The average bedroom is around 12 -14 square metres. If you can try to get all of the areas you want done at the same time as this will help to reduce costs.
Prices will start around $18 per square metre and will go up. Many places will give you a
free quote and will be able to tell you if your floors are suitable and what you can do.
(19/12/2000)
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